@berganzalondon Georgian diamond floral brooch
The Jewelry market is filled with buzzwords such as customization, bespoke, upcycled, sustainable and catch phrases like” jewelry that tells your story” or expresses your personal style. There is no type of jewelry that captures all of these words and phrases that have been gaining in prominence over the past 10-15 years like antique and vintage jewelry. There are brilliantly creative modern jewelers with fertile imaginations whose jewelry is filled with enchanting, alluring pieces but there is nothing like a rare one-of-a-kind Georgian parure or pair of natural pearl and diamond Edwardian/Belle Epoque earrings, These plus Victorian cluster rings and intricately designed Art Deco engagement rings melt the heart of a jewelry enthusiast who has a penchant for the past and who would like her pieces to embody all of today’s jewelry speak.
Every year during the holidays some of my favorite and trustworthy antique dealers, stores, and online accounts who also sell or show on Instagram post pieces that are authentic, original and one-of-a-kind. Many of them are museum quality or are in excellent condition and perhaps more every day wearable that represent a certain era exceptionally well.
As we head into 2021, let’s try and move on from 2020 towards brighter days, but let’s remember the centuries and time periods that came before in jewelry and have influenced all that came after. Here are some of my favorite posts from the global antique and vintage community on IG who sell there, online and at brick and mortar stores.
Parisian-based @metierparis sells earlier period jewelry from Roman through Edwardian with an emphasis on Georgian, Victorian and Belle Epoque in pristine condition. Her taste is impeccable and there is always something that will make your heart flutter when you scroll through her feed Here she features a trio of rings from the 1700’s— vibrantly colored Georgian rings in rare spinel, as well as amethyst and citrine. All with small mine cut diamond surrounds in silver topped gold.
Manhattan-based @alavieillerussie whose shop and website run the gamut from Georgian through mid-20th century in museum quality condition features this antique gold and micro-mosaic pendant from the Grand Tour of the Victorian era reveals a magnifier and a palace view.
Amsterdam-based @Inezstodel_jewelry is a mother and daughter team of Inez and Leonore and they are as charming as the jewelry they select for their IG account, brick and mortar store and online shop. They curate unusual authentic and alluring pieces that range in time periods—it’s more about the meaning and the provenance behind the pieces, the beauty of the craft that drives their collection. A prime example is this 18K gold Neo Renaissance necklace with small rossetes. The pendant is a Limoges enamel medallion depicting Amor in his carriage holding the torch of love being pulled by two doves. The mounting is pink and white enamel with table cut diamonds and sapphires in a scalloped setting, circa 1870. There is a maker’s mark for Auguste Perette.
London-based @sandracronan has spent over 30 years in the business and it is apparent in her selection from Georgian through signed mid-20th century finds. Sandra loves to tell the story of each piece she finds and educate her customers on what they are purchasing. Here is a pair of asymmetrical black pearl and diamond earrings mounted in platinum. The reverse of the pearl and diamonds create a unique and relevant vibe.
Manhattan-based @Keyamour ‘s antique locket of grape leaves with rubies and leaves of rose cut diamonds is a stunning locket in buttery soft gold. For anyone who dreams about the perfect locket to house photos and memories this is one to consider. Dana Kiyomura continually shows new pieces on her IG account and then adds them on to her online shop. Other pieces you might want to wander over and see are Keyamour’s tracery cuffs—they are a rare find in pairs but she tends to find some of the most intricate of motifs in wearable sizes. Her Victorian jewelry and Mid-20th century jewelry are also in the must-see category.
Manhattan-based @Leightonjewels (Fred Leighton) selection comprise what antique dreams are made of. Rebecca Selva not only curates an amazing selection of jewelry but she’s a born stylist with a strong design sense and creativity that is unparallel when it comes to mixing up different centuries ln layers of necklaces, or scattered brooches. She also knows an awe-inspiring find when she sees one such as these enamel and gold flower baskets with bird perched on top of them.
Manhattan-based @estatediamondjewelry features a wide range of engagement rings, most predominately from the Edwardian/Belle Epoque and Art Deco periods. The company also has a range of signed jewelry from the 1920s through 1970s as well as a beautiful selection of Art Deco line and bangle bracelets. This jaw dropping 4.53-carat antique engagement ring is with its spit diamond shank is one that once you see you won’t be able to get out of your mind if you are shopping for engagement rings.
Connecticut-based @simonteakle has a long history of examining and educating customers on jewelry after his 20 year stint at Christie’s running it’s New York department. He features all time periods from Georgian through the ‘70s in his brick and mortar shop and online. This antique natural pearl and diamond festoon necklace is English, circa 1880 when pearls and diamonds were just becoming de rigueur in society. This necklace is a piece that forecasts the popularity of the white on white look of early 20th century’s Edwardian/Belle Epoque jewels.
London-based @S_J_Phillips is another dream shop for antique aficionados. Renowned for their Georgian and Portuguese pieces, they have earned their reputation as one of the top international antique jewelry shops . This antique graduated rivière necklace is in a foil backed pin topaz collet setting, circa 1800. These pendant earrings feature a double drop cushion cut topaz tops from which drop a cluster of pink topaz.
NYC-based @grayanddavis enchanting shop in downtown Manhattan is inviting and warm in its décor and they also have an online shop. Every piece of Gray & Davis’ jewelry is carefully studied, and vetted for authenticity of age and materials. The focus of the shop is on antique and vintage engagement rings and versatile, highly wearable fine jewelry from the 1700’s thru the 1930’s.
London-based bentley_skinner is a popular stop to see where Downtown Abbey’s costume designer borrowed the cast’s Tiara’s for the series and the film. In business since 1880 and in the same family for three generations, the shop was first invited to supply jewelry to the Royal Family in the latter years of Queen Victoria’s reign. Bentley & Skinner still holds the title Jewellers by Royal Appointment to both Her Majesty the Queen and His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. These diamond Edwardian pendant earrings, circa 1900 are a spectacular example of the shop and website’s unwavering commitment to excellence in centuries of jewelry.
Connecticut-based @gloriousantiquejewelry owner Gloria Karp is a born curator of the finer things in life. Everything she has chosen is a perfect example of the time in which it was made yet it all looks as modern today when paired with a white shirt and jeans the way Gloria herself loves to wear antique jewelry. These 18th century Portuguese diamond chandelier earrings are set in gold and silver and swing with movement.
Baltimore-based @spareroomantiques specializes in Georgian and Early Victorian jewelry. Their website features everything from early diamond girandole earrings to Berlin Iron to a range of Georgian rings and buttery guard chains and the most exquisite examples of paste and rock crystal. Pictured here is a rock crystal rivière necklace that is set in cut back collet setting in foil closed back settings. It is crafted with precious and was meant to sparkle in the soft glow of candle light.
Austin based @threegracesjewelry gemstone rings are well chosen for their time periods and their beautiful cut and styling. Owner Lisa Stockhammer-Mial was one of the proponents who brought back colored stone antique engagement rings for couples looking for something a little different than more traditional diamonds. However when she does do diamonds, she goes big and beautiful as in this 5.58 TCW diamond ring, with a center stone of 1.98-carats. This late Victorian cluster ring with scalloped edges to form more of a floral motif is set with antique old European cut diamonds in 18K white and yellow gold.
Manhattan-based @patsaling specializes in Art Deco and mid-century jewelry with emphasis on rare signed pieces by such luminaries as René Boivin and Suzanne Belperron. However, Saling also offers broad selection of magnificent, one-of-a-kind pieces from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Saling’s goal is to find jewelry from the past that continues to resonate aesthetically with contemporary fashion and culture. These Art Deco onyx and diamond Art Deco earrings are showstopping and are by the jeweler Linz.
LA-based @plattboutiquejewelry features a range of symbolic motif driven jewelry such as stars, anchors and crescent moons. They also find some of the most juicy old-mine cut and European cut rings from the Victorian period. But they don’t stop there. Their retro and mid-twentieth jewelry are also pieces to behold.
Manhattan-based @doyleanddoyle’s website is a veritable jewelry box of different styles that satisfy a range of demographics and customers. Emphasis is on jewelry that is wearable and that won’t be tucked away in a safe with many styles hailing from the Victorian period. When it comes to engagement rings, they range from Victorian to mid-20th century and there are also a wide variety of different periods of yellow gold chased and engraved wedding and well as different styles of eternity bands that are part of the ever evolving online shop.
One look London-based @wartski1865 and you feel like you are looking at a museum’s Instagram account. This shop has everything from the most romantic of sentimental jewelry to early cameos and intaglios and signed pieces by some of the most renowned French Jewelers in addition to their legendary Faberge pieces. This necklace is enameled with gems set in yellow gold and is by Lucien Falize, Paris, c.1881.
Manhattan-based @macklowegallery has one of the most comprehensive Art Nouveau jewelry collection along with their premier collection of Tiffany lamps and Art Nouveau furniture. They offer numerous signed pieces from Lalique , George Fouquet, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Marcus & Co. to name just a few. They also feature unsigned pieces that they have authenticated and which highlight the expressive nature and riotous mix of materials of the masters that rebelled against the industrial revolution and brought jewelry back to an art form. Here a Lalique pendant of enameled leaves in a fitted box that dates to 1890.
The list goes on
If this hasn’t satisfied your antique addiction, please also see these equally distinguished antique dealers/shops online and in store: